Heating a bread tie to strip off the plastic coating will give you a thin wire that can be used to poke through those pesky little holes, and follow up with brakleen, then compressed air. Squirt the cleaners through all of the passages. Lacquer thinner, brake clean or carb spray will cut varnish. Boiling is unnecessary, and it removes the sealers used to coat the porosity in the cast metal. Last resort? Just a good cleaning with mineral spirits and a parts brush is a good start. So I take it you have done the boil method on numerous carbs, with different chemicals? Since you only get one chance to screw up any given expensive and hard to replace part,I tend to error on the cautious side cut my losses at one set. They will turn dark with just about any type of cleaner I've found if you leave it long enough. What else would you recommend if normal carb dip nor the Yamaha carb cleaner is available? And BTW, yes, boil too long with pine sol or lemon juice and the carb bodies will turn dark. The part I do not agree with is there they instruct you to boil the carbs in pine sol. (solid core wires, resistor caps and non-resistor plugs). All of the stock parts are engineered to work together. Removing the air box and doing a bunch of other mismatched mods will turn a screamer into a sputtering and popping POS. I don't remember where the info is at right now, but just read through the service manual on it. They really aren't too difficult to install, if you use the proper procedure. Clean them up with it if you like, but rinse it off right away without the boil order.Īlso Jimbo, these carbs were designed to use the air box. I tried that once years ago, and it turned those once shiny cast aluminum into dull grey funky looking carbs. It looks like these carbs aren't too much different than I have seen. Nessism wrote: /~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_.Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf
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